Scarpa Instinct VS
|
93
|
Edging
10
Smearing
7
Sensitivity
10
Cracks
10
Rubber
8
Value
8
|
High-tension vacuum fit; best heel of the Instincts
Precise, hypersensitive toe
Powerful merger of keen edging and aggressive grabbing
Protective, enlarged toe-hooking patch
Tongue with pull-tab helps seat foot deep in shoe
|
Longest break-in of the Instincts: smearing is initially clunky
Bi-Tension rand and neoprene lining are weak at heel pull-tabs
Fit is a tad aggressive for longer, slabbier pitches
|
|
La Sportiva Miura
|
93
|
Edging
10
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
8
Cracks
8
Rubber
10
Value
9
|
Excels on all angles and rock types
Comfortable fit
Unique lacing system that is exceptionally easy to tie and untie
Angled, low-profile toe box great for cracks, and all types of edging and face climbing
|
Long break-in period
Laces can blow out early
|
|
La Sportiva TC Pro
|
92
|
Edging
10
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
8
Rubber
9
Value
10
|
Comfortable for long multi-pitch routes, especially in Yosemite.
Outstanding performance on edging and most crack-climbing.
Protects ankles in off-widths.
Designed by Tommy Caldwell for granite free-climbing performance.
|
Performs poorly in finger-sized cracks, particularly splitter .75” cracks.
|
|
Scarpa Boostic
|
91
|
Edging
10
Smearing
9
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
9
Rubber
9
Value
5
|
Superb fit for medium feet with low-volume heel.
Stiff midsole for support.
Tensioned rand retains shape over shoe’s life.
Slight down-turned toe for edging performance.
Comfortable, secure Velcro closure.
|
One of the most expensive shoes on the market.
Not recommended for crack climbing.
|
|
Evolv Geshido SC
|
91
|
Edging
7
Smearing
10
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
8
Rubber
8
Value
9
|
Savvy blend of performance and comfort
Thin, low-profile, flexible toe excellent for cracks, flares, smearing, and smedging
Lots of adjustment possibilities
given their gradually rounded toebox and thicker (4.2mm) outsole
Lightweight but also built to last
|
1-mm half-length concave midsole perhaps not quite stiff enough for those seeking an all-arounder that leans more toward a traditional edging boot
Might not be downcambered enough—and has no downturn—for radical steeps
Could use a higher rand or toebox patch for toe scumming
|
MSRP
$140.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Five Ten Anasazi Arrowhead
|
90
|
Edging
9
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
10
Cracks
6
Rubber
9
Value
8
|
Extreme precision on edges, nubbins, and pockets
A very light shoe (feels like air on your feet)
Killer Onyxx rubber sole
Clean, simple design without too many bells and whistles
|
So performance-oriented that it won’t be good for all uses (trad, multipitch)
Narrow toebox can lead to cramping if worn too long with high-volume feet
|
MSRP
$165.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Scarpa Booster S
|
90
|
Edging
9
Smearing
10
Sensitivity
10
Cracks
7
Rubber
9
Value
5
|
Extreme sensitivity plus hyper precision
Light and nimble on the feet
Good play and torque in double Velcro closure
“Swoop” design (Tri-Tension Rand) drives power into big toe
Ridged toe-hooking patch and high heel cup
|
Ultra-flexibility (lateral and torsional) means shoes can feel flimsy in foot cams/heel-toes
Specialist’s shoe: not as versatile as the Scarpa Instinct line
|
MSRP
$175.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Scarpa Instinct S
|
90
|
Edging
7
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
8
Rubber
8
Value
10
|
Lightweight yet durable
Copious rand and toe rubber
Great on pockets
|
Skin-tight fit required
|
|
Tenaya IATI
|
90
|
Rubber
8
Edging
8
Smearing
8
Heel/Toe Hooking
7
Comfort/Fit
9
|
Extremely comfortable
Rubber is sensitive and trustworthy
Smears very well
|
Runs large; order a half to a full size down from normal
Heel hooks are overly sensitive, not for the weak footed
Closure system cams on itself
|
|
La Sportiva Futura
|
89
|
Edging
7
Smearing
9
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
6
Rubber
9
Value
9
|
Very sensitive, soft bouldering and sport-climbing shoe.
Perfect, suction-cup fit.
Design is very long-lasting.
“No Edge” design requires you to be more precise.
|
Not supportive enough for long routes or pitches.
Harder to toe down on oblique edges.
Not the best at toe-hooks.
No Edge design requires you to be more precise.
|
|
Scarpa Feroce
|
89
|
Edging
9
Smearing
9
Sensitivity
10
Cracks
8
Rubber
6
Value
7
|
Less extreme last means good versatility
Triple Velcro closure secures shoe well; easy on and off
Toe stays downturned for edging, but allows give for great smearing capabilities
Good for wide feet and long toes
|
Too stiff for super thin cracks or the climbing gym
Might not fit thinner feet
|
MSRP
$165.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Scarpa Techno X
|
89
|
Edging
10
Smearing
7
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
6
Rubber
10
Value
9
|
Laces don’t interfere in crack climbing
Fantastic edging performance
Doesn’t stretch due to comfortable micro-suede synthetic leather
Really comfortable
|
Not enough arch support
Not great at heel hooking
|
MSRP
$145.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Five Ten Pink Anasazi Lace-up
|
88
|
Edging
10
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
7
Rubber
8
Value
8
|
Comfortable, flat-lasted shoe for all types of face climbing
Lower volume heel is more comfortable than other Five Ten shoes
Laces provide a precision fit
Can’t ask for a better, stickier edging shoe
|
Shoe’s tongue moves around a bit
Laces are hard to tie and untie
|
|
La Sportiva Katana Lace
|
88
|
Edging
8
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
5
Rubber
8
Value
10
|
Sportiva’s proprietary P3 rand retains the shoe’s shape over its life.
Slight asymmetry and downturned toe add performance without compromising comfort.
Very low-volume heel.
Breathable and comfortable.
|
Too little arch support.
Long break-in period.
Could be more sensitive.
|
|
Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym
|
88
|
Edging
7
Smearing
7
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
7
Rubber
10
Value
10
|
One of the most comfortable climbing shoes on the market
Easy on, easy off
Wide range of climbing applications
Suitable for climbers of all abilities
|
Stretches a lot
Stretches a lot Heel could be lower volume
|
MSRP
$115.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
La Sportiva Jeckyl VS
|
88
|
Edging
5
Smearing
7
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
7
Rubber
10
Value
10
|
Fantastic crack climbing slipper, especially for desert routes
Great value
Suction cup fit: no dead space
Easy on, easy off
|
Not great at edging
Unlined leather stretches slightly
|
MSRP
$120.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Butora Acro
|
88
|
Rubber
7
Edging
7
Smearing
7
Heel/Toe Hooking
9
Comfort/Fit
8
|
Precise fit, zero dead space
Huge patch of rubber on top of foot
Good balance of stiffness and flexibility
|
Crammed toe box
Stitching on strap gets in the way of tightening
Centered powerpoint can be awkward
|
|
Millet Hybrid
|
86
|
Edging
10
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
8
Rubber
7
Value
8
|
Pointy, supportive, and hyper-precise toe: best-in-class accuracy
Narrow shoe that also accommodates high-volume feet
“Crash Pad” heel great for bouldering landings
Toe-hooking patch and high rand nice for bouldering and cracks
Surprisingly good smearing for a stiff shoe
|
A hair too flat-lasted and rigid for grabbing on the super-steeps
Some biting around the Achilles tendon due to heel-area collar stiffness
Reduced sensitivity in heel for technical hooks
Upper strap can bite into feet
|
MSRP
$120.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Mad Rock Shark 2.0
|
86
|
Edging
5
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
8
Cracks
9
Rubber
7
Value
9
|
Incredible feel and sensitivity
Unique, nearly all-rubber upper excels at hooking, scumming, glomming
Comfortable vacuum fit
Low-profile toe grabs like a dream but divot-stands/dime-edges well on steeps
Affordable: only $119 for a specialized boot
|
Hard to take on and off—you must “unroll” the heel
Not super-breathable; confining on a hot day
Requires strong feet: a shoe for advanced climbers
A little “naked”/painful in jams due to soft, pointy toe
|
|
Evolv Prime SC
|
84
|
Edging
8
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
10
Rubber
5
Value
6
|
Beefy, bomber construction
Highly-versatile, triple-closure system, and comfortable split-tongue
Rounded toe box is surprisingly precise
Excellent heel and toe hooking
|
A hair stiff for “grabbing” on overhangs
New sole feels too thick
Rubber felt “slick” under cooler conditions
|
MSRP
$140.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Lowa Red Eagle Lace
|
84
|
Edging
10
Smearing
7
Sensitivity
5
Cracks
8
Rubber
8
Value
6
|
Easy on, easy off lacing
Anti-bacterial lining
Mesh tongue that breathes well in warmer conditions
Great fit for medium to wide feet
Quick break-in period
|
Laces are cheap, and “bite” into the top of your foot
Stiff sole comes at the expense of sensitivity, making it hard to feel smaller edges
Perforated shoe fabric collects dirt
|
MSRP
$165.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Evolv Addict
|
84
|
Edging
7
Smearing
5
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
7
Rubber
9
Value
9
|
Easy on, easy off
Wide range of climbing applications
Suitable for climbers of all abilities
|
Stretches a lot
Rubber could be stickier
Heel could be lower volume
Hot spot in heel
|
|
Five Ten Anasazi Guide
|
84
|
Edging
9
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
4
Cracks
7
Rubber
7
Value
9
|
Stiff, supportive flat last
Laces help to dial in fit
Great edging shoe
|
Struggles on finger cracks
Could have better arch support
|
MSRP
$145.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Five Ten Anasazi VCS
|
84
|
Edging
9
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
4
Cracks
7
Rubber
8
Value
8
|
Superior edging
Comfortable
Maintains shape
|
Feels clunky at first
Upper wears quickly
|
|
La Sportiva Katana
|
84
|
Edging
9
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
5
Cracks
7
Rubber
8
Value
9
|
Dominates tiny footholds
Toe box retains shape
A true all-arounder
|
Very narrow fit
Insensitive
Clunky on overhangs
|
|
Tenaya Ra
|
83
|
Edging
7
Smearing
5
Sensitivity
8
Cracks
6
Rubber
9
Value
8
|
Precise, supportive, pointy toebox
Comfy uppers and split tongue
Stable edging and outside-edging platform
Bomber, highly adjustable double Velcro closure
Light but well built: minimal stretch and will resole well
|
Toebox “buckled” up after use, diminishing reliability on smears
4mm sole felt thick out of the gates
|
|
Boreal Lynx
|
82
|
Edging
7
Smearing
9
Sensitivity
4
Cracks
7
Rubber
8
Value
7
|
Very sticky Zenith rubber—when coupled with the flexible forefoot, excellent for smearing
Bomber Spanish construction—shoes are durable and will withstand trad/face abuse and multiple resoles
Slim, snug, comfortable heel cup
Wide, high-volume fit; good feel and comfort out of the box
|
5-5.5mm sole initially thick, causing “smedging” instead of edging
Some clunkiness and lack of toebox precision
|
|
Evolv Luchador SC
|
82
|
Edging
8
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
5
Cracks
4
Rubber
9
|
Comfortable, flat-lasted shoe
All-around performance
Great edging
|
Baggy heel
Deadspace under midsole
Velcro tabs hard to pull
|
MSRP
$139.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Scarpa Vapor V 2015
|
81
|
Edging
8
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
5
Cracks
6
Rubber
8
Value
8
|
Comfortable when tight
Conforms to your foot
Excels at most angles
|
Not very sensitive
Doesn’t grab holds on roofs
Too wide for narrow feet
|
MSRP
$159.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Evolv Geshido
|
80
|
Edging
7
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
8
Rubber
5
Value
7
|
Versatile lace-up closure & precise toe box
Hold their shape well
Killer edging and nubbin standing
Able grabbing and smearing
Elongated toe for thin cracks
|
Tricky to fit—the “love bump” might not work for everyone
A bit stiff for ultra-steeps
Sole comes with too much rubber
Rubber feels slippery under cooler conditions
|
|
Mad Rock M5
|
80
|
Edging
7
Smearing
5
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
6
Rubber
6
Value
9
|
Slightly asymmetrical toe shape adds performance
Easy on, easy off design
Comfortable
Slightly downturned toe adds a bit of performance
High arch support
|
Too much rubber on the heel made heel hooking difficult
Too stiff
Proprietary Science Friction rubber not the stickiest
|
|
Five Ten Stonelands VCS
|
78
|
Edging
4
Smearing
9
Sensitivity
6
Cracks
5
Rubber
8
Value
6
|
Very comfortable fit
Super-sticky Stealth C4 rubber; killer smearing
Reduced heel-cuff pinching with wide or swollen feet
Fierce outside edging/drop-knee accuracy
Good blend of performance and comfort
|
Flat last is perhaps a hair too flat—a mild downcamber or downturn would help with steeper terrain
Last can become somewhat amorphous after break-in, the downside of comfort
Soft shoe—toebox tended to buck up, especially on small edges
|
MSRP
$140.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Lowa X-Boulder
|
78
|
Edging
7
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
5
Cracks
9
Rubber
8
Value
3
|
Great fit and support for long routes
Great edging shoe
|
Clunky Velcro closure doesn’t add anything to shoe
Too stiff
Pricey
|
MSRP
$175.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Five Ten Rogue VCS
|
76
|
Edging
4
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
8
Rubber
1
Value
8
|
Extremely comfortable
No dead space
Velcro does a great job of cinching shoe around foot, dialing in the fit
|
Split-grain leather upper not durable
Tongue slides around and bunches up
|
MSRP
$99.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
Lowa Falco Lace
|
76
|
Edging
8
Smearing
3
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
7
Rubber
4
Value
7
|
Good balance of softness and support
Opens wide for easy on, easy off
Fits narrow to medium wide feet
Kept my foot cool and comfortable
|
Rubber not very sticky
Hot spot on outer edge of foot
|
MSRP
$140.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
|
93 
