La Sportiva Jeckyl VS Review
March 25, 2014
88 The Good
- Fantastic crack climbing slipper, especially for desert routes
- Great value
- Suction cup fit: no dead space
- Easy on, easy off
The Bad
- Not great at edging
- Unlined leather stretches slightly
As far as desert crack-climbing slippers go, the new Jeckyl VS might have just set the new performance standard. I consider it to be in the same category as the Five Ten Moccasym and the Evolv Addict, yet I find to be much more comfortable and better performing than either. Outside of climbing desert splitters, however, the Jeckyl VS struggles to edge. Therefore, it might not be the first choice for sport, gym and bouldering.
Edging
A roomy toe box in the Sportiva Jeckyl VS, with a flat last, allowed for too much foot movement to feel very solid on tiny edges.
Smearing
Overall, it felt like a soft slipper with a lot of foot flex that allowed me to mash my foot into little dishes confidently.
Pockets
The Sportiva Jeckyl VS has a low-profile toe that excelled on tiny pockets.
Heel/Toe Hooking
The Jeckyl VS is not technical enough to toe hook in advanced situations. However, the suction-cup low-volume heel excelled in heel hooking.
Cracks
This is a great, highly sensitive crack shoe for everything from thin to wide splitters and corners.
Comfort
The leather upper is super comfortable through a entire day.
Value/Longevity
Overall, the Sportiva Jeckyl VS is a great shoe at a great price that appears to be holding up really well after a year’s worth of harsh desert conditions.
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