Butora Acro Review

October 15, 2016
Butora Acro
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Butora Acro Butora_Acro-0.jpg Butora_Acro-1 Butora_Acro-2 Butora_Acro-3 Butora_Acro-4 Butora_Acro-5 Butora_Acro-6
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
88
Rubber
7
Edging
7
Smearing
7
Heel/Toe Hooking
9
Comfort/Fit
8

The Good

  • Precise fit, zero dead space
  • Huge patch of rubber on top of foot
  • Good balance of stiffness and flexibility

The Bad

  • Crammed toe box
  • Stitching on strap gets in the way of tightening
  • Centered powerpoint can be awkward
THE VERDICT

The Butora Acro is a comfortable, all-around well performer. Its main features highlight bouldering: a tight, secure heel and a large swath or rubber covering the toes. Its biggest downfall is a powerpoint that is too centrally located, making reachy edges hard to stick. The shoe fell right in the middle of the test group in regards to aggressiveness and stiffness. 

FULL REVIEW

EDGING
The Acro has great edging capabilities with adequate stiffness to support the foot. The powerpoint, while effective, is located near the middle of the toe box. This made it difficult to stick far away edges without awkwardly turning out the heel. 

SMEARING
Despite its relative stiffness, the Acro remains flexible when smearing. Its aggressive toe succumbs to slabs, and doesn’t get in the way when jammed into cracks. 

HEEL/TOE HOOKING
Lots of rubber is slathered under the heel and over the toes, allowing the Acro to really shine. Toe hooking is incredibly effective thanks to a huge, perforated patch of rubber covering the top of the toes. Heel hooks have a good mix of comfort and sensitivity.

RUBBER
The Acro’s rubber is passable, giving sufficient grip in all but the most polished surfaces. This shoe has rubber in every spot you could potentially need, making it quite versatile. 

COMFORT/FIT
This shoe has an incredible fit with no dead space and a wide opening provides easy entry. It is comfortable to climb in, even while cammed in a crack. Despite a claimed “wide fit”, toes still feel cramped in the toe box. The single strap’s Velcro switches from male to female right in the essential tightening zone, making it tougher to get precise tension. This shoe fit snugly at our tester’s normal climbing shoe size. 

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