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Evolv Addict ReviewMarch 25, 2014
- Easy on, easy off
- Wide range of climbing applications
- Suitable for climbers of all abilities
- Stretches a lot
- Rubber could be stickier
- Heel could be lower volume
- Hot spot in heel
The Evolv Addict is an excellent crack-climbing shoe, very similar to the Five Ten Moccasym, but slightly softer and with a slightly better fit for wide feet. The rubber is not as sticky as Five Ten’s, however.
It’s hard not to compare the Evolv Addict to the Five Ten Moccasym, and in fact, even in direct, head-to-head testing I had a hard time distinguishing a difference between the two. The Moccasym is one of my favorite crack-climbing shoes and now, so is the Addict.
There are a few minor differences between the two shoes: The Addict seems to fit slightly wider feet better. The Addict is slightly softer than the Moccasym. And Evolv’s TRAX rubber is slightly less sticky than Five Ten’s Stealth C4.
One downside to the Addict is a hot spot in the heel, at the attachment point of the rubber sole.
For a flat-lasted, soft shoe, the Addict edges well enough in most situations, but struggles on the steeper toe-in climbing.
It’s easy to bend your foot and press into smears thanks to the soft soled design. Trax rubber seems to be slightly less sticky than other rubbers, and I felt less secure on dishes.
The Evolv Addict’s low profile toe and soft rubber aid with most pockets. However the toe box is too rounded to really fit super small pockets.
As a slipper, these shoes aren’t really meant for extreme heel-hooking. Thanks to their softness, toe hooking works well in most situations. I wish there was less rubber on the heel for hooking, and the fit was lower volume and therefore less likely to slip off.
The Addicts do their job of easily getting your toes and feet into a variety of crack sizes and allow you to torque and jam to your heart’s content. It’s a great crack shoe, especially for desert environments like Indian Creek and Joshua Tree, but it would need stickier rubber to really perform well in places like Yosemite.
At the toe box, the Addict is super comfortable. The wider volume fit my foot better than the Moccasym, actually. However, there was a significant hot spot at the heel, where the rubber from the sole comes up and attaches. This compromised comfort a bit.
Overall, these are bomber shoes that are built to last a long time, all for under $100. You can’t get much better value from a climbing shoe.
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