Evolv Addict Review

March 25, 2014
Evolv Addict
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
84
Edging
7
Smearing
5
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
7
Rubber
9
Value
9

The Good

  • Easy on, easy off
  • Wide range of climbing applications
  • Suitable for climbers of all abilities

The Bad

  • Stretches a lot
  • Rubber could be stickier
  • Heel could be lower volume
  • Hot spot in heel
THE VERDICT

The Evolv Addict is an excellent crack-climbing shoe, very similar to the Five Ten Moccasym, but slightly softer and with a slightly better fit for wide feet. The rubber is not as sticky as Five Ten’s, however.

ITEM DESCRIPTION

The Evolv Addict is a soft, flat-lasted slipper designed for gym climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, and especially as a crack climbing shoe.

FULL REVIEW

It’s hard not to compare the Evolv Addict to the Five Ten Moccasym, and in fact, even in direct, head-to-head testing I had a hard time distinguishing a difference between the two. The Moccasym is one of my favorite crack-climbing shoes and now, so is the Addict.

There are a few minor differences between the two shoes: The Addict seems to fit slightly wider feet better. The Addict is slightly softer than the Moccasym. And Evolv’s TRAX rubber is slightly less sticky than Five Ten’s Stealth C4.

One downside to the Addict is a hot spot in the heel, at the attachment point of the rubber sole.

Edging 
For a flat-lasted, soft shoe, the Addict edges well enough in most situations, but struggles on the steeper toe-in climbing.

Smearing
It’s easy to bend your foot and press into smears thanks to the soft soled design. Trax rubber seems to be slightly less sticky than other rubbers, and I felt less secure on dishes.

Pockets
The Evolv Addict’s low profile toe and soft rubber aid with most pockets. However the toe box is too rounded to really fit super small pockets.

Heel/Toe Hooking
As a slipper, these shoes aren’t really meant for extreme heel-hooking. Thanks to their softness, toe hooking works well in most situations. I wish there was less rubber on the heel for hooking, and the fit was lower volume and therefore less likely to slip off.

Cracks
The Addicts do their job of easily getting your toes and feet into a variety of crack sizes and allow you to torque and jam to your heart’s content. It’s a great crack shoe, especially for desert environments like Indian Creek and Joshua Tree, but it would need stickier rubber to really perform well in places like Yosemite.

Comfort
At the toe box, the Addict is super comfortable. The wider volume fit my foot better than the Moccasym, actually. However, there was a significant hot spot at the heel, where the rubber from the sole comes up and attaches. This compromised comfort a bit.

Value/Longevity 
Overall, these are bomber shoes that are built to last a long time, all for under $100. You can’t get much better value from a climbing shoe.

 


Continue Reading
WHERE TO BUY
MSRP
$99.00
ALSO AVAILABLE AT
$98.95
$98.95
$98.95
$99.00
*Your purchase helps to support the work of Gear Institute.
USER REVIEWS

No reviews have been posted for this product.

post