The Best Climbing Quickdraws

Review Year
Best in Class
Overall Rating
Price
Name Overall Rating Ratings The Good The Bad Price
C.A.M.P. Photon Mixed Express Nylon Quickdraw
90
Weight 8
Gate Responsiveness 9
Gate Opening 10
Nose Snagging 9
Runner Quality 6
Value 8

Lightweight

Keylock, tapered nose prevents snags on slings and bolt hangers

Large gate opening, curved wire gates for easier clipping

Dogbone runners are stiff

Rope end carabiner moves out of position on dogbone runner

No rubber retainer to hold rope end carabiner in place

Dogbone runner isn’t as wide as other high-end sport climbing quickdraws

MSRP
$19.00
BEST DEAL
$89.96
Petzl Ange Finesse
89
Weight 8
Gate Responsiveness 8
Gate Opening 8
Nose Snagging 10
Runner Quality 8
Value 7

Unique single wire gate design that avoids snags on harnesses, hangers, and ropes

Easy to unclip when cleaning steep sport routes or unclipping from slings or anchors

Rope end carabiner stays in place due to the String S system

Quality, durable, lightweight Dyneema runners that are stiff and partially protected from abrasion due to the String S

Large gate opening and easy handling with the Ange L carabiners

Expensive. The most expensive quickdraw tested.

Skinny Dyneema sling is great for saving weight but hard to grab for desperate or emergency clipping

Heavier than other lightweight quickdraws that feature skinny Dyneema dogbone runners

The Ange S carabiners can be harder to handle because of their small size

MSRP
$28.00
BEST DEAL
$24.95
Trango Smooth Quickdraw
89
Weight 6
Gate Responsiveness 9
Gate Opening 8
Nose Snagging 8
Runner Quality 9
Value 9

Full size carabiners that clip easily with responsive gate action

Tapered, keylock noses prevent snagging when cleaning steep sport routes or unclipping from harnesses and anchors

Wide dogbone runner makes it easier to handle and to “dog” sport routes or make emergency clips

Dogbone runner is tapered and tightly stitched to keep rope end carabiner in place

Heavier than expected on the market

MSRP
$23.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
Climb Tech Blanco Keylock
88
Weight 7
Gate Responsiveness 8
Gate Opening 8
Nose Snagging 8
Runner Quality 8
Value 9

Tapered, keylock noses on carabiners help prevent snagging on harnesses, slings, and hangers

Rope-end side of dogbone runner has rubber retainer stitched into runner to keep carabiner in place

Carabiner gates are responsive and snap close quickly

Lightweight for a keylock quickdraw

Low price and a great value for the features

Thin dogbone runner is light but harder to grab when making desperate clips or “dogging” a sport route

MSRP
$14.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
Black Diamond LiveWire Quickdraw
86
Weight 5
Gate Responsiveness 8
Gate Opening 8
Nose Snagging 7
Runner Quality 10
Value 8

Grooves and ridges on carabiners make them easier to hold and clip

Wide dogbone runners that make it easier to grab when working sport routes

Keylock nose on Dynotron straight gate carabiner helps prevent snagging on slings or bolt hangers

Dogbone runner is stitched loose on top to allow movement but has the Straightjacket System rubber retainer on rope end side to keep carabiner in place

One of the most expensive draws on the market

Heavier than most other quickdraws

The keylock nose is more square than other keylocks, doesn’t clean as easily as others tested

MSRP
$24.00
BEST DEAL
$11.90
Black Diamond HoodWire Quickdraw
86
Weight 7
Gate Responsiveness 7
Gate Opening 8
Nose Snagging 8
Runner Quality 8
Value 8

Innovative design makes cleaning routes easier, prevents snags

Carabiner gates snap close quickly and assertively

Straitjacket system keeps rope end carabiner in position

Wire gates are easy to manipulate due to flat wire design

Heavier than other wire gate quickdraws

During initial opening, wire gates feel stiff compared to other wire gate carabiners

Dogbone runner is smaller than other heavy-duty quickdraws, making it harder to grab

MSRP
$20.00
BEST DEAL
$14.96
Cypher Cicada
80
Weight 5
Gate Responsiveness 7
Gate Opening 7
Nose Snagging 8
Runner Quality 6
Value 7

Large, full size carabiners with a contoured shape make handling and clipping easier

Keylock carabiners with tapered noses make cleaning steep sport routes easier and prevent snags on harnesses, ropes, and slings

The dogbone runner is stiff and easy to handle

Heavier than other quickdraws

Dogbone runner isn’t as thick as other beefy, high performance sport draws, making it harder to grab when working sport routes

Expensive compared to many other quickdraws

Rope-end carabiner can move out of position

MSRP
$25.00
BEST DEAL
N/A
Omega Pacific Dirtbag Draw
77
Weight 3
Gate Responsiveness 7
Gate Opening 6
Nose Snagging 4
Runner Quality 7
Value 10

Carabiner gates are responsive and snap close quickly

Rope-end side of dogbone runners is stitched so carabiner stays in place

Tapered noses on carabiners help prevent snagging on slings

Rivets flush with carabiner to prevent snagging on slings

Low price

Heavier than other quickdraws

Traditional nose of carabiners can catch on things when clipping

Fraying noted on ends of two of the runners

MSRP
$12.60
BEST DEAL
$70.95