Review Year
Best in Class
Overall Rating
Price
| Name | Overall Rating | Ratings | The Good | The Bad | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
C.A.M.P. Photon Mixed Express Nylon Quickdraw |
Lightweight Keylock, tapered nose prevents snags on slings and bolt hangers Large gate opening, curved wire gates for easier clipping Dogbone runners are stiff |
Rope end carabiner moves out of position on dogbone runner No rubber retainer to hold rope end carabiner in place Dogbone runner isn’t as wide as other high-end sport climbing quickdraws |
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Petzl Ange Finesse |
Unique single wire gate design that avoids snags on harnesses, hangers, and ropes Easy to unclip when cleaning steep sport routes or unclipping from slings or anchors Rope end carabiner stays in place due to the String S system Quality, durable, lightweight Dyneema runners that are stiff and partially protected from abrasion due to the String S Large gate opening and easy handling with the Ange L carabiners |
Expensive. The most expensive quickdraw tested. Skinny Dyneema sling is great for saving weight but hard to grab for desperate or emergency clipping Heavier than other lightweight quickdraws that feature skinny Dyneema dogbone runners The Ange S carabiners can be harder to handle because of their small size |
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Trango Smooth Quickdraw |
Full size carabiners that clip easily with responsive gate action Tapered, keylock noses prevent snagging when cleaning steep sport routes or unclipping from harnesses and anchors Wide dogbone runner makes it easier to handle and to “dog” sport routes or make emergency clips Dogbone runner is tapered and tightly stitched to keep rope end carabiner in place |
Heavier than expected on the market |
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Climb Tech Blanco Keylock |
Tapered, keylock noses on carabiners help prevent snagging on harnesses, slings, and hangers Rope-end side of dogbone runner has rubber retainer stitched into runner to keep carabiner in place Carabiner gates are responsive and snap close quickly Lightweight for a keylock quickdraw Low price and a great value for the features |
Thin dogbone runner is light but harder to grab when making desperate clips or “dogging” a sport route |
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Black Diamond LiveWire Quickdraw |
Grooves and ridges on carabiners make them easier to hold and clip Wide dogbone runners that make it easier to grab when working sport routes Keylock nose on Dynotron straight gate carabiner helps prevent snagging on slings or bolt hangers Dogbone runner is stitched loose on top to allow movement but has the Straightjacket System rubber retainer on rope end side to keep carabiner in place |
One of the most expensive draws on the market Heavier than most other quickdraws The keylock nose is more square than other keylocks, doesn’t clean as easily as others tested |
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Black Diamond HoodWire Quickdraw |
Innovative design makes cleaning routes easier, prevents snags Carabiner gates snap close quickly and assertively Straitjacket system keeps rope end carabiner in position Wire gates are easy to manipulate due to flat wire design |
Heavier than other wire gate quickdraws During initial opening, wire gates feel stiff compared to other wire gate carabiners Dogbone runner is smaller than other heavy-duty quickdraws, making it harder to grab |
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Cypher Cicada |
Large, full size carabiners with a contoured shape make handling and clipping easier Keylock carabiners with tapered noses make cleaning steep sport routes easier and prevent snags on harnesses, ropes, and slings The dogbone runner is stiff and easy to handle |
Heavier than other quickdraws Dogbone runner isn’t as thick as other beefy, high performance sport draws, making it harder to grab when working sport routes Expensive compared to many other quickdraws Rope-end carabiner can move out of position |
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Omega Pacific Dirtbag Draw |
Carabiner gates are responsive and snap close quickly Rope-end side of dogbone runners is stitched so carabiner stays in place Tapered noses on carabiners help prevent snagging on slings Rivets flush with carabiner to prevent snagging on slings Low price |
Heavier than other quickdraws Traditional nose of carabiners can catch on things when clipping Fraying noted on ends of two of the runners |
