Runs large; order a half to a full size down from normal
Heel hooks are overly sensitive, not for the weak footed
Closure system cams on itself
The Tenaya IATI is truly an all-around climbing shoe. It has an amazingly comfortable yet aggressive fit, perfect when climbing casually or for long periods of time. This shoe feels at home on any terrain. The downturn in the toe box, while less exaggerated than other shoes in the test group, is effective without sacrificing comfort.
EDGING The IATI grabs onto small edges with confidence despite its flexible sole. Trusting the shoes takes a little getting used to since it is so comfortable. Because they are soft and sensitive, these shoes require strong feet to unlock their full potential.
SMEARING The IATI’s comfortable fit makes smearing decidedly pleasant. Plenty of give is allowed with no awkward pressure points on slab terrain, yet it still sticks on overhanging smeary foot chips.
HEEL/TOE HOOKING While heel hooks remain secure, they are very sensitive. There isn’t much rubber to work with over the toe box and toe hooking requires strong feet since the shoe is soft and flexible.
RUBBER The IATI’s Vibram XS Grip rubber is soft and confident. A perfect blend for all-around climbing, it sticks when you need it to without any break in period and is reliable despite its sensitivity.
COMFORT/FIT The IATI has an amazing level of comfort while cranking difficult problems or cruising up crack climbs. It out-performed other shoes in the test group without causing the common pains associated with most climbing shoes. The adjustable closure system is quick and secure, but cams down on itself, thus requiring an extra step to pull out slack before tightening. It fits great right out of the box, but make sure to order a half to a full size down from your normal climbing shoe size.
Mike Summers is an avid hiker, cyclist, climber, and outdoor enthusiast. While exploring America’s best outdoor spaces, Mike has developed an intimate relationship with his gear systems, allowing him to stay safe and comfortable in an otherwise forbidding environment. When he’s not exploring, you can find him sharing insights and chronicling his journeys at improbablebutpossible.com.