Five Ten Rogue VCS Review

March 25, 2014
Five Ten Rogue VCS
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
76
Edging
4
Smearing
6
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
8
Rubber
1
Value
8

The Good

  • Extremely comfortable
  • No dead space
  • Velcro does a great job of cinching shoe around foot, dialing in the fit

The Bad

  • Split-grain leather upper not durable
  • Tongue slides around and bunches up
THE VERDICT

One of the most comfortable shoes I've worn, the Five Ten Rogue VCS is a "transition" shoe for beginner/gym climbers looking to take their performance to the next level. It is extremely soft. That obviously makes it a fantastic shoe for training in the gym, but due to its fit and shape, I found myself able to climb at a high level outdoors as well. I'd use it for sport climbing and bouldering, but not trad. It will endure on plastic, but will fall apart more quickly on rock.

FULL REVIEW

One of the most comfortable shoes I’ve worn, the Five Ten Rogue VCS is a “transition” shoe for beginner/gym climbers looking to take their performance to the next level. It is extremely soft, which helps everyone from beginner to advanced climbers gain toe strength and learn to think about placing their feet precisely. This is a fantastic shoe for training in the gym, but due to its fit and shape, I found myself able to climb at a high level outdoors as well. I’d use it for sport climbing and bouldering, but not trad.

The Rogue VCS will eventually fall apart outside. The split-grain leather can’t withstand crack climbing, nor the harsh desert sand. But for those looking for a next-level high-performing shoe on a budget, this is a great option.

Edging
This shoe can’t edge very well, but it is so soft that it allows you to use your toes and curl them around footholds. The Rogue VCS can handle basic edging, but it’ll curl up and over your toes when the footholds get too demanding.

Smearing
A soft sole with Stealth C4 rubber allows for pretty good smearing capabilities. However, the lack of a high-performance fit made smearing a challenge as the shoe rolled underfoot.

Pockets 
One area this shoe was a surprising performer was on pockets. The pointed, low-profile toe plus the soft fit allowed me to feel more secure on really tiny pockets.  

Heel/Toe Hooking
This shoe worked well enough on heel hooks and toe hooks. The Velcro closures help cinch the shoe around your foot, ensuring that your heel won’t pop out even on demanding heel hooks.

Cracks 
I think the design of the last has the potential to be a fantastic crack climbing shoe. In fact, I was hoping to use the Rogue VCS for this purpose. But the low-quality leather upper is simply not durable enough to withstand the rigors of crack climbing.

Comfort 
The Rogue VCS is super comfortable. You could wear these all day. However, the tongue slid around and bunched up.

Value/Longevity
At $100, the Rogue VCSA comes in at a good price point, and so long as you don’t plan on using the shoe outdoors, and especially not for crack climbing.

 


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MSRP
$99.00
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