Scarpa Techno X Review
March 25, 2014
89 The Good
- Laces don’t interfere in crack climbing
- Fantastic edging performance
- Doesn’t stretch due to comfortable micro-suede synthetic leather
- Really comfortable
The Bad
- Not enough arch support
- Not great at heel hooking
The Scarpa Techno X does it all really well, and at a really high level. For a flat-lasted shoe, the Techno X is a really powerful edger, but deftly transitions to a crack climbing shoe that I’d recommend for both the desert as well as slippery granite like Yosemite. This is a shoe that should have a place in your bag whether you’re climb 5.9 or 5.12, single-pitch trad or multi-pitch adventure.
Edging
Scarpa’s bi-tension rand packs in a lot of toe power into a flat lasted shoe. I could confidently stand on the tiniest edges.
Smearing
The stiff sole compromises it as a great smearing shoe, but it’s still a pretty good one.
Pockets
I could easily shove my low-profile toe into tiny pockets, and use them as edges.
Heel/Toe Hooking
There was too much dead space in the shoe’s heel to really give the Techno X high marks as a hooking shoe. A higher arch would’ve added support and suctioned the heel onto my foot better. A bit of toe rubber atop the foot helps with toe hooking.
Cracks
This is a really powerful crack-climbing shoe that I thought performed well on cracks of all sizes and shapes. I appreciated the toe rubber atop the foot for lieback cracks.
Comfort
A lower-volume heel and a higher arch would’ve made this really comfortable shoe even better.
Value/Longevity
Overall, the Scarpa Techno X is a high-quality, well-made shoe for a decent price.
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