Scarpa Techno X Review

March 25, 2014
Scarpa Techno X
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
89
Edging
10
Smearing
7
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
6
Rubber
10
Value
9

The Good

  • Laces don’t interfere in crack climbing
  • Fantastic edging performance
  • Doesn’t stretch due to comfortable micro-suede synthetic leather
  • Really comfortable

The Bad

  • Not enough arch support
  • Not great at heel hooking
THE VERDICT

The Scarpa Techno X does it all really well, and at a really high level. For a flat-lasted shoe, the Techno X is a really powerful edger, but deftly transitions to a crack climbing shoe that I’d recommend for both the desert as well as slippery granite like Yosemite. This is a shoe that should have a place in your bag whether you’re climb 5.9 or 5.12, single-pitch trad or multi-pitch adventure. 

FULL REVIEW

Edging
Scarpa’s bi-tension rand packs in a lot of toe power into a flat lasted shoe. I could confidently stand on the tiniest edges.

Smearing
The stiff sole compromises it as a great smearing shoe, but it’s still a pretty good one.

Pockets
I could easily shove my low-profile toe into tiny pockets, and use them as edges.

Heel/Toe Hooking
There was too much dead space in the shoe’s heel to really give the Techno X high marks as a hooking shoe. A higher arch would’ve added support and suctioned the heel onto my foot better. A bit of toe rubber atop the foot helps with toe hooking.

Cracks 
This is a really powerful crack-climbing shoe that I thought performed well on cracks of all sizes and shapes. I appreciated the toe rubber atop the foot for lieback cracks.

Comfort
A lower-volume heel and a higher arch would’ve made this really comfortable shoe even better.

Value/Longevity 
Overall, the Scarpa Techno X is a high-quality, well-made shoe for a decent price.

 

 


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WHERE TO BUY
MSRP
$145.00
ALSO AVAILABLE AT
$115.99
$154.95
$115.73
$115.00
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