Scarpa Feroce Review

March 24, 2014
Scarpa Feroce
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
89
Edging
9
Smearing
9
Sensitivity
10
Cracks
8
Rubber
6
Value
7

The Good

  • Less extreme last means good versatility
  • Triple Velcro closure secures shoe well; easy on and off
  • Toe stays downturned for edging, but allows give for great smearing capabilities
  • Good for wide feet and long toes

The Bad

  • Too stiff for super thin cracks or the climbing gym
  • Might not fit thinner feet
THE VERDICT

The Scarpa Feroce is a high-performing all purpose shoe for climbers with wider feet. The Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber is sticky and long-lasting. The Suede/Lorica upper retains the shape of the shoe and helps it feel more and more comfortable over time. And the slightly down-turned toe, combined with exceptional smearing performance, makes the Feroce a shoe that can tackle both 5.10 slabs, 5.11 cracks, and 5.14 overhanging sport routes.

FULL REVIEW

Edging 
The Feroce has great edging capabilities. It felt secure standing on the smallest footholds.

Heel/Toe Hooking 
Well-placed sticky rubber on the heel and over the toe makes the Feroce one of the best toe-hooking and heel-hooking shoes I’ve tested.

Smearing 
Thanks to a design that allows the whole upper front foot to flex as one, the Feroce is an exceptional smearing shoe. I’ve experienced confidence on the most oil-slick, boot-polished holds I’ve ever stood on while wearing the Feroce.

Pockets 
A slightly pointy toe allows for wide to large pocket climbing, but even when the pocket gets really tiny, the Feroce’s great smearing capabilities come into play and allow you to use small pockets for ore holds that might otherwise be too small for a shoe this stiff.

Cracks 
The Feroce just isn’t designed for high-end crack climbing. That said, its mid-stiff last and ability to flex for smears make it a surprisingly great crack-climbing shoe on granite. Velcro straps deteriorate in the desert, however, so it is not suited for Indian Creek crack-climbing.

Comfort
The break-in period was relatively quick. If you have a medium to wide foot, and want performance without pain, this shoe might definitely exceed your expectations for comfort. It certainly did for me.

Value/Longevity  
Vibram XS Grip 2 is a softer, more high performance rubber, but it deteriorates just slightly more quickly than other rubbers. Other than that, the Velcro straps have held up to desert dirt, and the shoe has retained its shape throughout its life.

 


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WHERE TO BUY
MSRP
$165.00
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