Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym Review

March 25, 2014
Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
88
Edging
7
Smearing
7
Sensitivity
7
Cracks
7
Rubber
10
Value
10

The Good

  • One of the most comfortable climbing shoes on the market
  • Easy on, easy off
  • Wide range of climbing applications
  • Suitable for climbers of all abilities

The Bad

  • Stretches a lot
  • Stretches a lot Heel could be lower volume
THE VERDICT

The Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym is a classic – a basic, soft slipper that has withstood the test of time, and performs best on crack climbs and smears. Because they are so soft, they are less exceptional at edging, and they are too rounded in the nose for smaller pockets.

FULL REVIEW

There’s a reason the Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym has lasted over two decades on the competitive climbing-shoe market. This Spartan red slipper has withstood the test of time, grades, and changing climbing styles thanks to its core devoted following of gym climbers, sport climbers and crack climbers who prefer a basic, soft slipper for everything they do.

My favorite application for the Moccs is crack climbing in Indian Creek. Once they break in, after a couple weeks of wear, these slippers attain a certain harmony with vertical desert splitters. Like key to lock, they seem made to fit in cracks. The lack of Velcro and laces is preferable in these situations, too: nothing to collect sand, and nothing to interfere with twisting your foot into the vertical crack.

Size these shoes small, and plan on spending two painful weeks stretching them out. These slippers will stretch up to a size and a half.

Edging
The Moccasyms are too flat-lasted and soft to be exceptional at edging, though they can get the job done on finger-sized edges.

Smearing
Their softness and sticky Stealth C4 rubber provide a sense of security while smearing on even the sandiest footholds.

Pockets
The Five Ten Anasazi Moccasym has a low profile toe, and its soft rubber all aid with most pockets. However the toe box is too rounded to really fit super small pockets.

Heel/Toe Hooking
These shoes are not designed for really extreme heel hooks. The heel may slip off your foot, in fact, if you try pulling too hard or your slipper isn’t sized appropriately. That said, the softness of the shoe allows you to bend your toes up and hook rock features.

Cracks
The Moccasyms eat cracks, especially in Indian Creek and other desert splitters. It’s a fantastic shoe for this application.

Comfort
Except for the first two weeks of stretching your shoes out, the Moccasyms are one of the most comfortable slippers on the market.

Value/Longevity
The Moccasyms are a great deal overall, especially as you can find these for well under $100 online. They last a really long time, especially if you’re just using them as a crack-climbing shoe and not wearing down the edges. Even still, they will hold up to a resoling or two.

 


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MSRP
$115.00
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