Petzl Ange Finesse Review

April 16, 2014
Petzl Ange Finesse
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GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
89
Weight
8
Gate Responsiveness
8
Gate Opening
8
Nose Snagging
10
Runner Quality
8
Value
7

The Good

  • Unique single wire gate design that avoids snags on harnesses, hangers, and ropes
  • Easy to unclip when cleaning steep sport routes or unclipping from slings or anchors
  • Rope end carabiner stays in place due to the String S system
  • Quality, durable, lightweight Dyneema runners that are stiff and partially protected from abrasion due to the String S
  • Large gate opening and easy handling with the Ange L carabiners

The Bad

  • Expensive. The most expensive quickdraw tested.
  • Skinny Dyneema sling is great for saving weight but hard to grab for desperate or emergency clipping
  • Heavier than other lightweight quickdraws that feature skinny Dyneema dogbone runners
  • The Ange S carabiners can be harder to handle because of their small size
THE VERDICT

The Ange Finesse is a feature packed, lightweight quickdraw that utilize the innovative MonoFil Keylock single wire gate design and sturdily built Finesse dogbone runners. It is a great draw to buy for lightening up a trad rack or for long multi-pitch routes.

FULL REVIEW

The Petzl Ange Finesse is a lightweight quickdraw that makes use of the innovative Ange single wire gate carabiners. Connecting the two is a thin Dyneema dogbone runner with the effective String S rubber carabiner retainer system.

Carabiners
The Ange carabiners feature a unique single wire gate design called the MonoFil Keylock. The single wire gate has a small ball on the end that fits into a hole in the nose of the carabiner, thus creating a mix between a wire gate and a keylock design. On the wire is a contoured piece of plastic next to the gate hinge to help provide purchase when clipping. The single wire gate design feels foreign when first used. After years of feeling standard or wire gates it’s different to grab an Ange and to squeeze a single wire. But, after some brief use testers felt comfortable with the responsive gate action that clipped easily and responsively.

The Ange carabiners are available in two sizes, the S and the L. The Ange Finesse quickdraw tested featured a mix of the two but Petzl provides three Ange versions with any combination of the two sizes. The S are the smaller of the two and can be more challenging to handle due to their smaller size. The S is similar to other small carabiners on the market such as the Trango SuperFly or Metolius Bravo. The L is a full size carabiner with a generous gate opening similar to the Black Diamond LiveWire or Trango Smooth.

The tapered, sleek noses of the Ange carabiners lack any protrusion to snag when cleaning steep sport routes, unclipping tensioned ropes or when being removed from harnesses laden with gear. Hence, testers found the Ange Finesse quickdraws to be the easiest for cleaning steep sport routes.

Dogbone Runners
The Ange Finesse features the Finesse dogbone runner, a skinny 10mm wide Dyneema runner that is similar in width to many of the skinny, lightweight runners found on the lightest quickdraws on the market. What makes it different is the String S system that is a rubber piece the rope end side of the runner that keeps the carabiner firmly in place and protects the end of the runner from abrasion. The String S never failed in holding the carabiner in place while testing and did so while keeping the bottom of the runner rigid.

Versions
The Ange Finesse is available with two lengths of dogbone runners; 10cm and 17cm. The 17cm version, with a combination of S and L carabiners weighs 2.5 ounces, which is over ½ an ounce heavier than the lightest quickdraws tested such as the C.A.M.P. Nano, Metolius Bravo and Cypher Mydas. But, it is lighter than many highly featured quickdraws such as the Black Diamond HoodWire and C.A.M.P. Photon.

Value
Overall, the Petzl Ange Finesse has many features that make it a great quickdraw for hard sport climbing and long multi-pitch routes. Serious sport climbers will enjoy the large size of the Ange L carabiners and the snag free noses. Climbers looking for a quickdraw that is light for long routes but still has some high-end features may also appreciate the Ange Finesse. The Ange Finesse comes with a hefty price tag. At $27.95 each or $25 each when purchased in a 5 pack the Petzl Ange Finesse was the most expensive quickdraw tested.

 

 

 


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WHERE TO BUY
MSRP
$28.00
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