From the department of “why didn’t I think of that,” Metolius Climbing, the originator of the Personal Anchor System (PAS), will release an even simpler way of safely tethering to sport route anchors dubbed the Anchor ‘Draw.
The Orginal Personal Anchor System
Metolius released their PAS in 2003 and later introduced a Dynamic PAS; other brands followed suit with similar versions. The PAS offered adjustability of the dual anchoring points, and although they were not equalized, they did act as backups for each other. Some loved the PAS and its relatives, while others loathed them for various reasons; many didn’t like crowding the tie-in points, and others didn’t like it hanging from these points as they climbed. Before the PAS, sport climbers employed several tethering methods to the anchors, with one of them being the use of two extra quickdraws. This was quick, convenient, didn’t require purchasing more gear, without anything hanging down while climbing or taking space in the harness’ tie-in points. But commonly, none of the carabiners were locking units.
The Anchor Draw: The Simplest Solution
Metolius expanded on the quickdraw anchoring method to create the Anchor ‘Draw. It consists of two screw-lock carabiners joined by a seven-inch long nylon/UHWPE sling creating a “quickdraw” appropriate for personal anchoring. The carabiners have captured sling eyes to prevent rotating and off-axis loading. The entire CE/UIAA certified system is rated to 22 kN (closed gate) and weighs in at 3.8 ounces. A pair of Anchor ‘Draws makes for a super simple personal anchoring system with proper locking carabiners.
One of the most dangerous points in climbing a route without drop-in sport anchors is the anchoring, threading, and lowering procedure. The Anchor ‘Draw presents familiar gear, doesn’t interfere with tie-in points, and proper use is easily verified by sight and feel. This may aid with the now-common gym-to-crag transition.
The Metolius Anchor ‘Draw will be available in January of 2021 for an MSRP of $30.