The integrated gaiter prone to crampons to catching
The inner boot is slow to dry
The lace lock on the outer shell does not have enough grip
Lowa’s Expedition 6000 EVO RD is well suited for climbing moderate to technical routes in cold weather like Alaska, Himalayas and Peru. But with an inner bootie that is slow to dry, this is not the boot to have on wet routes when ample drying time is not available.
Fit This boot does not feature a moldable liner. Instead, the boot shell has padding built in to capture the achilles and heel area to minimize lift. The stock insole is comprised of a fleece layer atop an aluminum-covered foam layer. This combination while warm might not provide enough support if the user needs after market insoles for arch support or to reduce volume.
Durability The black material that comprises the outer shell is extremely durable around the boots sole. The green Cordura material that makes up the upper gaiter is loose which will result in crampon strikes and small tears. The inner boot is not a foam material that will pack out and wear thin. It is a lace-up bootie that has a durable rubber sole that will provide some traction when worn independently around camp. The Vibram soles are thick and with the combination of snow and crampons the soles experience only light wear.
Comfort The Expedition 6000 is extremely warm and enjoyable for climbing. The liners do get damp from sweat and should be removed to dry in the sun and placed in the bottom of your sleeping bag, thus keeping them warm and dry for the morning.
Warmth The Lowa 6000 shell is built with multiple layers to provide insulation/protection from wind, snow and rock. The inside of the shell is built with Aveolite, DURATHERM®, Alu-coated PE, Foam, GORE-TEX® & 400 gram PrimaLoft® Insulation material that insulates your feet from the cold ground and retains ambient body heat produced by your feet. A final layer of warmth comes from the removable inner boot. The 6000 keep my feet warm while guiding at 20,000+ feet on Denali, toe warmers were a necessity due to -20 F temperatures on our summit day.
Precision The Vibram Dolent sole does what it was intended to do, kick good platforms in snow to provide the climber with traction when not wearing crampons and be extremely durable. The lacing system of the inner boot and shell are adequate and reliable. This boot is a better performance boot when compared to traditional plastic double boots.