Tenaya Oasi Review

November 4, 2015
Tenaya Oasi
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
85
Edging
7
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
8
Cracks
5
Rubber
7

The Good

  • Precision toe
  • Fits true to size
  • No break-in period
  • Velcro closure cinches down

The Bad

  • Not great on toe hooks
THE VERDICT

The Tenaya Oasi is mid-performance edging shoe for super narrow feet. With 3.5mm of Vibram XS rubber under toe, the Oasi is soft enough to feel the tiniest edges and dishes of rock, but there’s just enough support to let you climb all day. Two adjustable Velcro straps really allow you to dial in a secure fit, which is great. The Oasi is not an ideal bouldering shoe, due to the fact that it isn’t the best toe-hooker around; in fact, the large boomerang-shaped patch of rubber on the top of the foot seems oddly placed, if not useless. However, the Oasi does stand up to most sport-climbing areas in the moderate to high-end range.

FULL REVIEW

Edging
Slightly downturned and slightly asymmetric, the Oasi was great on edges for the inner big toe. However, outer edging was more challenging, if not painful, likely due to the low-volume fit. 

Smearing
Soft, supple, sticky. The Oasi performed well on smears. 

Pockets
The Oasi has a very pointy shape, that works great in the tiniest pockets. This is the kind of shoe you’d be psyched to bring to Wild Iris.

Heel/Toe Hooking
With a slightly baggy shape in the heel on the inner side of the foot, the Oasi didn’t provide a lot of confidence on even the most basic heel hooks. The toe rubber on top of the foot seems to be placed poorly for maximum toe-hooking friction. It also began to delaminate after a few normal climbing sessions.

Comfort
A cotton lining adds a ton of comfort to the shoe straight out of the box, but it begins to smell a bit after months of use. 

 


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WHERE TO BUY
MSRP
$165.00
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