Scarpa Stix Review

March 26, 2014
Scarpa Stix
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
90
Edging
9
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
7
Rubber
9
Value
8

The Good

  • Asymmetrical last and precision fit for toe power
  • Easy on, easy off slipper
  • Great arch support and little dead space underfoot
  • Lightweight

The Bad

  • Not the most reliable heel hooker
THE VERDICT

In the latest design from acclaimed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher, the Stix is a medium-wide, medium-soft slipper built for vertical to steep routes. The Stix is super comfortable, with no dead space and achieves a great balance between sensitivity and support. The Stix is made for those who want an easy on, easy off performance sport-climbing shoe that also works well in most bouldering and gym situations, so long as the problems don't require intensive heel hooking. Those who love to heel hook might prefer the performance of the Scarpa Boostic or the La Sportiva Solution.

FULL REVIEW

Edging
Scarpa’s X-Rand tensioning system employs two crisscrossing swaths of tensioned rubber to pull the shoe up into the arch of your foot, while direction power down through the large toe. You feel it working on edges of even the most improbable size.

Smearing
The Stix is a solid smearing shoe, but it requires really pressing your foot hard into the rock to get the most out of it.

Pockets
The narrow, pointy, precision toe box finds pockets without a problem.

Heel/Toe Hooking
Though billed as having a lower volume heel, the Stix left me with a couple of very small pockets of dead space. That combined with the fact that it’s a slipper made heel hooking less reliable than I would like.

Comfort
The Stix is a super comfortable high-performance slipper that had no hot spots. I could wear it for hours.

Value/Longevity
Overall, this is an average to expensive performance shoe, but one that is really well made, pushing the overall value well above average.

 


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WHERE TO BUY
MSRP
$149.00
ALSO AVAILABLE AT
$127.99
$103.97
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$159.95
$98.77
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