Evolv Nexxo Review

March 26, 2014
Evolv Nexxo
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
90
Edging
10
Smearing
8
Sensitivity
9
Cracks
7
Rubber
9
Value
7

The Good

  • Easy on, easy off
  • Suction-cup fit and an asymmetrical last
  • Velcro strap provides arch support under foot
  • Comfortable micro-fiber lining

The Bad

  • Hot shoe; doesn’t breathe well
  • Heel could be lower volume
THE VERDICT

For steep climbing of any variety, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better, more powerful edging shoe than the new Evolv Nexxo. This a great high-performance slipper that does it all surprisingly well. Chris Sharma has been behind the design from the beginning, and it shows in the final product. I loved the soft heel, fully coated in rubber, that made hooking a breeze; I just wish it was a little lower volume. 

FULL REVIEW

Edging
A tensioned rand, plus the asymmetrical semi-soft last create a shoe with lots of toe power. I felt precise and powerful standing on the tiniest edges.

Smearing
The shoe flexes more than enough to get a nice big patch of rubber touching the rock. I wish the rubber was a tad stickier, however.

Pockets
The toe box has a dynamic, precision shape that fits in tiny pockets.

Heel/Toe Hooking
Lots of rubber atop the foot made toe hooking exceptionally great, but a heel with too much dead space compromised heel-hooking performance.

Comfort
The shoe strives to reach that fine balance between sensitivity and support, comfort, and performance, and meets those expectations for what a great performance shoe should be.

Value/Longevity
This reasonably priced performance shoe has a ton of great features. The toe rubber atop of the foot, however, has begun peeling away from the shoe after a few months of wear.

 


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