Edelweiss Placebo Review

June 27, 2014
Edelweiss Placebo
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Edelweiss Placebo Edelweiss_Placebo_2 Edelweiss_Placebo_3 Edelweiss_Placebo_4 Edelweiss_Placebo_5 Edelweiss_Placebo_6 Edelweiss_Placebo_7 Edelweiss_Placebo_8 Edelweiss_Placebo_9
GEAR INSTITUTE RATINGS
84
Weight
6
Spring Tension
8
Trigger / Dexterity
6
Flexibility
6
Bulk
8

The Good

  • Lightweight—the lightest harness tested
  • Smooth, easy to adjust buckle
  • Comfortable for climbing movement
  • Gear loops are rigid and easy to clip and unclip

The Bad

  • Uncomfortable for hanging for long durations
  • Tail of waist belt strap interferes with gear loops
  • Gear loops on small side
  • Non-adjustable leg loops didn’t work for every tester
THE VERDICT

The Edelweiss Placebo is designed with the weight conscious sport climber in mind. Lightweight, anatomic design for ease of movement and rigid gear loops are tailor built for sport climbing. The Placebo was very comfortable for climbing and had a great feel during regular climbing movement. However, during extended periods of hanging in the harness testers found the harness to become uncomfortable. The Placebo was the lightest harness tested. 

FULL REVIEW

Comfort
The Edelrid Placebo features a unique design with an anatomically designed waistbelt and leg loops. The harness is minimalist in look and feel but does an admirable job of dispersing weight for its slight use of materials. The Placebo was very comfortable for climbing and had a great feel during regular climbing movement. However, during extended periods of hanging in the harness testers found the harness to become uncomfortable.

Adjustability/Smooth Buckles
The Placebo has one buckle for the waistbelt strap and testers found it to be easy to use and adjust. The buckle works smoothly and helps make for a snug and tightly adjusted harness.

Leg Loops
The Placebo’s leg loops stand out at first glance as particularly unique in their design. The rear of the leg loops are wide but feature a large cut out of material, presumably for weight saving and to distribute weight. Overall, the leg loops were comfortable for climbing and feature skinny straps in the front that make for ease of movement. Some testers didn’t like the way the leg loops lack any adjustment option which can make a comfortable fit difficult for long periods of hanging.

Gear Loops
Four rigid gear loops grace the sides of the Placebo and testers found them easy to reach and to clip and unclip. Many testers felt that the gear loops were on the small side, even for a sport climbing harness. Many commented on they way the tail of the waistbelt strap interferes with the gear loops and gets in the way of clipping items onto the loops.

Weight
At 12 ounces, the Placebo is a lightweight harness in a small, compact package. It was the lightest harness tested and is just an ounce and a half heavier than the lightest harnesses on the market.

Other Features – including Haul Loops, Ice clippers, etc.
The Placebo has a small haul loop on the rear of the harness but it was largely unpopular with testers because of its small size, making it difficult to clip and unclip.

Value
At $69.95, the Placebo is a decent value for a lightweight harness. There are a number of harnesses on the market in the price range of the Placebo and for climbers looking for a stripped down, minimalist harness, the Placebo can be a good value.

 


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WHERE TO BUY
MSRP
$70.00
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